Cantilever Tote Box

A toy toolbox for people who are masochists about push fits and threading stuff during assembly. This cantilever box is also unique in that it has a fourth level, independent (non-cascading) opening action, sliding drawers, and an opening that exposes almost the full drawer with little above-level occlusion. Because of how far it can cantilever outwards, the walls are also designed to act as standing supports. It's essentially the result of if a fidget had a baby with a toolbox (a design labradoodle of sorts). # Tools * A M3 Allen Wrench * A motorized M3 hex driver (optional - but HIGHLY recommended) * Parallel pliers (You can use normal pliers, but parallel pliers are recommended) * A poking tool is also recommended. * Snips for post-processing # Printed Parts * Case Wall and Drawer - x2 * Drawer - x4 * Handle A - x2 * Handle B - x2 * Handlebar - x2 * Handle Nut Sleeve - x4 * Hasp A - x2 * Hasp B - x2 * Latch - x2 * Either the tight version or the loose version, based on preference. Tight feels snappier, but loose has fewer mechanical issues. * Link Arms - x24 * Technically, they're called "Arm Links," but I made a typo in the assembly video, and I'm trying to stay consistent. * Sliding Drawer - x2 * Tub - x1 # Printing The files should already be in the correct print orientation. However, there are uploaded image references showing which side should be directly on the print bed. If you have bed adhesion issues, especially for the handles, consider printing with a brim of ~5mm. The prints in the screenshots and videos were printed with PLA. PLA or PETG should be used for the latch and hasps. In theory, any material can be used for all other parts. # Extra Parts This project uses a lot of screws and nuts. Consider what colors of plastic you're going to use, and then try to decide on a complementary screw finish (usually between shiny stainless steel or black-finished screws). *